Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Seersucker, Milk & Sugar, Summer Rain
























You knew, of course, that the word "seersucker" comes to us from the Asian Hindi, and is based on the Persian expression "shir or shekar," meaning milk and sugar. Well, at least you know it now.

The milk and sugar are thought to refer to the seersucker's smooth and  "crinkled" stripes. It is the crinkle or bump that holds the fabric away from the skin, allowing air to circulate and keep us cool. The crinkle also means that ironing is not needed: always a good thing as far as we're concerned.

Will a seersucker suit keep you cool in the "new hot," daily summer temps of 93-95'F with high humidity in many areas? Honestly, no. New York City just had its hottest June since 1872, and July may also break records. All of the 10-hottest years since records have been kept have occurred since 1998. 


All the crinkle in the world can't make up for that kind of heat, and we find little solace (sorry) in our Republican friends' idea that this warming is a natural temporary event, kind of like a Trillion USD in bad mortgages.

But, we can change the accepted season for Seersucker, which used to be strictly enforced as Memorial Day to Labor Day. We say that you should feel free to wear it beginning in mid-spring, then well into warm October.

With a long season of milk and sugar, anything is possible, isn't it?

                                  ___________________________________________

Speaking of milk and sugar, we finally had some summer rain this week. Our summer intern, Lung Ta, writes....

Summer rain,
like young love:      
brief, wet,

heavenly 
                                                      
                 fall.                              

                            

                                 __________________________________________
      
  RareBurghers is a global way of life, as shown by these words from the Importance of Living by Lin Yutang....                  


"....He sees with one eye closed and with one eye opened the futility of much that goes on around him and of his own endeavors, but barely retains enough sense of reality to determine to go through with it. He is seldom disillusioned because he has no illusions, and seldom disappointed because he never had extravagant hopes. In this way his spirit is emancipated."


Sounds a bit like Philip Marlowe or Sam Spade (not to be confused with Jack), which is okay with us. Lin, we salute you as an early and true RareBurgher.

                                             ________________________________________

We end with our collage of the week....also from Asia....

                         radius                                                             2010



Ed Note: "Summer Rain" and "Radius," both copyright/2010/rareburghers. All rights reserved.


                                  














Tuesday, June 22, 2010

More, You Know He's A RareBurgher When He....

copyright©2010TWMcDermott

Has a closet door filled with ties he likes and, despite current "fashion," wears them whenever he feels like it.

Is a sucker for a seersucker suit in summer in the city, in the country, or on the island, and is not afraid to wear one all the way through September.

Would never think about wearing a navy blazer with brass buttons to something called work, unless he happens to manage a private club.

Wouldn't even think about chewing gum ( unless sitting in a dugout or bullpen),  even when making a sudden, rapid descent into the airport at Kashgar, China.



Might have a row of ties, all of which have dots on them, and he might wear one of them every day for weeks or months.

Wears black laces in brown oxford shoes and vise versa once in a while.

May only have two ties that he always wears, a navy with stripe and a solid black or navy: both knitted- silk, made in Italy, one with a point, one squared.



....and He would never....

    Read his BlackBerry, while having lunch with his daughter.

    Wear a white shirt with a tan poplin suit.

    Wear a "poplin" suit with less than 60% cotton.

    Worry that his linen trousers or coat are wrinkled.

    Dry-clean the same suit more than twice a year.

    Wear a suit without a vent in its coat.

                                     "Dark Roast" ©2010 RareBurghers $175
                                        
                                        








Tuesday, May 18, 2010

RareBurghers Expurgated Guide To Bow ties

©twmcdermott2010


Prologue

I once worked in a company owned by a very nice, very smart man who always wore a bow tie with his suit. He was in his sixties and portly; the bow ties looked so natural on him that I could not have imagined him wearing a longish necktie.

One August, over twenty years ago, I was invited to attend his birthday party during a business convention in Las Vegas, of all places. I say "of all places," since that particular town does not spring to mind when you think about men who favor wearing bow ties without the tux; also, one is never eager to visit that place in high summer, if at all. On this occasion, I thought it would be fun to buy a bow tie to wear to the party, and so I did (shown above), despite the fact that I had previously only worn them, like most men, to formal affairs.

Funny thing, but, after finally succeeding in tying it in the hotel-room mirror, it immediately felt as though I had been wearing bow ties my whole life. Funnier still, people at the party thought it looked just right too with my navy suit, and my old boss was very pleased at my effort.

And so began my bow tie years.

Some Can, Some Can't


There does not appear to be any particular rule about who might look good in a bow and who might not. Some tall thin men can, some cannot. Some short and stout ones cannot, some can. Some men with full chins can pull it off, others appear too have added one too many chins. Some can only wear them at weekend parties, or when professing to a college class, while certain others can wear them all the time: for business, at the club, saving democracy, or sitting in a favorite chair reading a book.

Truthfully, there was some disagreement in my immediate family as to which group I belonged. I thought that I looked pretty good in just about every situation. My spouse, daughters and son disagreed. They thought it made me look nerdy. Most business colleagues seemed to enjoy my wearing bows and thought they gave me a distinctive style, but several eventually admitted that they were embarrassed when I wore them  to meetings with other companies.

Despite the lack of unanimous acceptance, I always felt comfortable wearing a bow and acquired quite a few in various styles and sizes.

Favorites, And Not


My trusted standby was a navy with white dots (left/top), which we might call The Churchill. I wore out a couple of these. Whenever I saw a good one in a store, like Brooks Brothers or JPress, I bought one. How do we define a "good one?" It's silk, of course, and it may be unlined or have a thin lining, which affords ease in the tying (more about that later, don't panic yet). It should have either a sliding length-adjuster or a small t- hook that fits inside a marked neck-size.

As with "regular" ties, the idea here is not to attract attention away from you. So, loud colors or intricate patterns are to be avoided. You begin to see, then, the beauty of the dot ties: achieving timeless style through simplicity of design vs. making a fashion statement.

When I now look at the bow ties remaining in my collection, I do wonder what I was thinking about when I wore or purchased some of them. One in particular stands out (below right), because of its large size and bright colors. It is hand-painted silk from Dunford Wood in Oxford and I bought it in Harrods. I have never worn it.



Fit To Be Tied (the expurgated part)


Men who favor bow ties have a secret: they know how to tie them and you don't.

Perhaps you still have your friend or spouse tie those formal bow ties for you. That can be fun. We assume that nobody in our audience would even consider having one of those "pre-tied" things. That would be a travesty. Some of you might even have a bow tie hanging in the closet, but you just could not understand the instruction booklet that came along with it. That is understandable; we've all been there.

Here is the thing: you can overcome this problem without therapy or even tears. Our suggestion is to try tying it yourself a few times any old way that you'd like to try. Don't try this fifteen minutes before a party is to begin or your train is set to leave. Do it in your own free time. You might even get very close to success by yourself.

After that, you're really ready for some expert instruction:


http://www.beautiesltd.com/category/how-to-tie-a-bow-tie-instructions


Yes, these are the best instructions available. Be patient, go slowly, and they will make perfect sense to you after a few tries. Once you get it, it is like riding that proverbial bicycle; your fingers will not forget. You will be able to tie one, while siting in your airplane seat about to land in London, Hong Kong, or Timbuktu.

As your style evolves along with your life, our rule is: step bow-ldly,  but lightly.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Too Small To Fail

                                                   Snails


                                                  Consider
                                                  snails:

                                                  shells
                                                  for tails.

                                                  It must
                                                  be strange
                                                  when,

                                                  home is
                                                  your range.

                                                  Mobile trailers
                                                  for snail hims
                                                  and snail hers.

                                                  Salad chompers:
                                                  breakfast, lunch,
                                                  and supper.

                                                  Garden
                                                  grand tours:
                                                  lettuces, chives
                                                  and les fleurs.

                                                  Then, it's
                                                  garlic, heat,
                                                  some Pernod.

                                                  Voila!
                                                   and now
                                                   they're escargots.






copyright2010/twmcdermott/therareburgher
                                                    
                                       
                                                  
                                                


                                  

Friday, March 12, 2010

Three Winter Tales: Caps, Boots, Coat


Civilized readers of this column might be amazed to hear that there is anything good about winter. Civilization progresses more smoothly when people have a chance to shed clothing, not layer it on. But, this winter I did discover three ways to ease the pain:

I have seen many men looking great while wearing a watch cap: all of them were outdoors when wearing one. The other night we saw a fifty-something guy wearing a striped one while standing inside at a restaurant bar. He looked very silly.

To be honest, I have never looked particularly good in one of the many woolen hats/caps that I have tried wearing. The last couple of years I've tried two Patagonia models: one dark green with a peak, the other black and worn tight to the head. They just kept me warm.

The watch caps shown about are made in France by Saint James; they will change your watch cap life forever. The sizing and ribbing allows for the perfect combination of fit, comfort and warmth. Even my wife says that I look good in them. That, friends, is a tremendous accomplishment. In all likelihood only the French could have done this for me.

I bought the red one at The Royal Male in Newport one blustery day, then bought the navy and black at the Saint James shop on Madison Avenue (79th & 80th). I now guard them with my life and have been known to wear them comfortably and confidently in the privacy of my home.

I strongly urge you to procure several of these for next fall and winter. They are a great value at around $30.


                                                       

When my taste buds begin to tell me it's time to eat something covered in chimichurri sauce and share it with friends, I get into my little red jeep and drive to Costco* to buy rib-eye steaks. This happened one day last December and that is when I saw the coat pictured above.

As with love, you find classic style in the most unlikely places. Costco turns out to have some sense of style, either by design or mistake. Who knew? This WeatherProof coat lay on a table with a hundred others in three colors: black as above, and two shades of brown. 

I bought the black one for $40 so I could be warm while walking the dog late at night in winter. My twelve year-old Barbour ceases keeping me warm at about 35F and I never bought a liner.

This coat has performed superbly all season long, so much so that I just wear it all the time, even over a grey suit. At the train platform it has been mistaken for a Zegna or Prada coat costing thirty times as much. The coat has a very simple design with only two unobtrusive pocket zippers showing in front; it has an interior zippered liner, comes with a hood, and is waterproof. If Jill Sander designed a discount store line, this would be the one.

You may remember that the dimwits who make this coat tried to sleazily capitalize on a Times Square photo of President O wearing one. Shame. But, it's a hell of a good coat for forty bucks.




About ten years ago, while walking past Britches, a shop in New Canaan, CT. with my daughter, I spied a pair of brown boots in the window. They turned out to be semi-waterproof leather field boots made in France. They were expensive, a little roomy, and I bought them.

Over the years this snap decision did not bring great results. The arch on the boots was just too flat; a thin sock left too much room in the toe and a thick one left my instep aching. These are lifelong shoe afflictions. I have written about this trouble before and will do so again.

My eventual solution (above) was to purchase a pair of Timberland black leather waterproof boots. The interior sole has warming insulation and the arch support is excellent. These boots are as comfortable as boat shoes and can easily be worn without socks. They are actually waterproof, meaning, friends, that they keep water out without your having to wax them.

I bought them for about $100 on Broadway in Soho, NY last spring. I had been wearing those uncomfortable French boots that day, and upon leaving the shop, I gave them to a man who was collecting money for the homeless. He must have been happy to get them, because, when I looked back I could see him struggling to get them on. Hope he doesn't have high arches.



* A note to my butcher friend, John. As you know, when cooking for 2-3, I only use your grass fed Argentinian-raised beef, as advised by The Master, Francis Mallman in his brilliant book, Seven Fires.


Monday, March 1, 2010

Bumper Stickers We Would Like To See


                                                                    

RareBurghers are not into placing bumper sticker messages on their vehicles. Actually, most of us are not into vehicles very much at all, except as necessary life accessories. If anything, we tend to display signs from some of places that we love. But, since we've seen some particularly dumb fender messages recently, we decided to imagine what messages some RareBurghers might want to send, if they were so inclined:
  • "I have no idea what my child's marks or SAT scores are."
  • "I'd rather be right here, driving this old truck."
  • "Live Free. Or Diet." Alternate: "Live Free or Diapers."
  • "Honk if your horn's been disconnected."
  • "If your boss is a Carpenter, you are a Nailhead."
We're fairly sure that we'll see more of these soon; it's a good way to fill a slow Monday morning.


                                                                    

Real Fifties Style: Peter Gunn



One day last October I was walking down Madison Avenue wearing a light grey worsted-suit, a white Thom Browne/Brooks oxford button-down shirt, a black Italian-knit silk tie and black cap-toes. I bumped into a young man, a travel agent who used to work on my staff, who remarked how "Mad Men" my "outfit" looked.

It took me a moment to realize that he was referring to the TV show, Mad Men, about a Fifties' era ad agency. Wearing grey, white and black was a perfectly regular thing for me to do. It wasn't my Halloween outfit as he may have thought.

I mention this, because it came to mind as I began watching old episodes of the noir detective show Peter Gunn (1958-1960) on Netflix. If you want to see what the really cool Fifties looked and sounded like, then watch Craig Stevens portraying Blake Edwards's alter-ego private eye and listen to its jazz track.

If you're put off by the idea that Henry Mancini created the soundtrack, you're making a mistake. This isn't the Moon River Mancini; this is the one who listened to a lot of classic jazz and softened it up just a bit for TV, but not much. You can sample it on Peter Gunn/Buddha Records 1990. You should recognize the Peter Gunn opening theme no matter what your age.

If Stevens's Pete and Mancini's jazz are on the cool side, you will find Edie, Gunn's love interest, played by Lola Albright hot. She is hot the old fashioned way, by not trying too hard. Even better, she can sing, as she does at Mother's, Gunn's favorite jazz club hangout. We're still searching for Lola Albright's recordings, but here's a sample: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4jFd0XYYb0

A lot of ingredients conspire to make this show seem authentic today and not just nostalgia; the principle one being that Gunn's "wardrobe" never looked like one and still doesn't. He's a Cary Grant-type, who might not call his mom every day. The style holds up today as well or even better than it did fifty years ago. He wears suits in varying shades of grey, always with a white shirt and a solid black tie, tucked in at the beltline. His suit coat shows just the white edge of his pocket square. The trousers are rarely held up by a belt; instead, Gunn favors a tab close and wears them high, as if with braces (which he would never be caught shot dead or alive wearing).

If you grew up in the Fifties, the black and white film will add to the show's natural feel. That's how our youth looks to us, at least through the Beatles' It's A Hard Day's Night. Shows like Mad Men simply do not feel right to us. Their washed color looks as if Ted Tuner had gotten hold of it in his colorization lab, or about as real as Beatle Paul's latest hair color. Our kids can tell us a million times that the world had color back then, but, if you're smart, you won't listen to them.

Peter Gunn's plots are simple and somewhat repetitive. There are many killings, but no gore. There is much implicit-only sex between Pete and Edie, yet somehow even it seems more real and better than the current fake steaminess that surrounds us on TV today. Blake Edwards's dialogue is spare and at times borders on the campy, especially when Herschel Bernardi's Lt. Jacoby speaks. It works just fine.

Watching these shows, one is tempted to think that it would be great to have an updated version of the show or, perhaps, a feature film. Upon reflection, however, it would be much better to simply leave it alone. Investing $100million or so in a film, with a track by Jay-Z, starring actors who would only be vague impersonations of Pete and Edie, is a very depressing thought.

Please don't forward this to any Producer friends.



http://www.museum.tv/eotvsection.php?entrycode=petergunn

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Gunn